48 Hours in…Mexico City

David Lee May 20, 2013 12

Mexico City, is in a word, immense. At an elevation of 2,240 meters, covering over 1,400 square kilometers, and boasting a population of 21 million, the numbers alone are enough to intimidate new arrivals. Underestimating all the interesting things to see and do, I had given myself just two days to explore the city before joining my Mexico Ancient Civilizations tour. While a week would be ideal, it’s still possible to see and do quite a lot in 48 hours. Here’s how I spent my time.

The First 24 Hours

Visit: Historic City Center, Zocolo, Catedral Metropolitana, Templo Mayor, Palacio Nacional, Palacio de Bella Artes
Mexico City’s historic city center, designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, deserves a full day in itself.The Zocalo, or main square, is one of the largest in the world, and features the Metropolitan Cathedral, the largest in the Americas.Adjacent the Cathedral, or perhaps I should say underneath it, are the ancient Aztec ruins of Templo Mayor. Discovered by accident in 1978, the site of the Great Temple continues to be excavated and studied, and offers a fascinating look back at the history of how this land was once used. Entrance to the ruins costs $4.75, and includes access to a large, modern museum built on site.

The National Palace faces the main plaza as well, and is known for its Diego Rivera murals depicting Mexico’s history. A fifteen minute walk west from the Zocolo on the pedestrian-only street of Francisco Madero leads to one of Mexico City’s most beautiful buildings, the Palace of Fine Arts.

Built in the Art Nouveau style, the palace hosts performances by the Mexican ballet, as well as a museum featuring temporary exhibits, and large murals, including several by Diego Rivera. The incredibly clean Parque Alameda, next to the Palace of Fine Arts, offers locals and tourists alike the chance to grab a bench by one of several fountains, and take a break. If you still have energy left by this point, there are several more museums and churches dotted around the park.

Metropolitan Cathedral.

Metropolitan Cathedral.

Palace of Fine Arts.

Palace of Fine Arts.

Eat: Cafe de Taguba
Founded in 1912, Cafe de Taguba is housed in a 17th-century building, with a richly decorated dining area. The menu is classic Mexican, and while it may be a little pricy by backpacking standards, it’s worth it for the atmosphere alone. Gaby, our CEO, suggested we eat here for our first group dinner, and everyone enjoyed it.

Group dinner at Cafe de Taguba

Group dinner at Cafe de Taguba.

Drink: Plaza Garibaldi
Sunday evenings are the most popular time of the week for Mexicans to visit the plaza, and thus it draws out the greatest number of musicians too. Grab a beer at one of the bars, and take in the atmosphere of an authentic Mexican experience. Plaza Garibaldi, also known as “Mariachi Square” is widely known as the home of mariachi music in Mexico City. Surrounded by bars, the plaza is frequented day and night with mariachi bands looking to entertain in exchange for a few pesos.

Mariachi Square.

The Second 24 Hours

Visit: Frida Kahlo Museum
Frida Kahlo is one of Mexico’s best known artists, with her marriage to fellow artist Diego Rivera serving to elevate elevate her status even further. After her death in 1954, her former home and studio, La Casa Azul (The Blue House), was donated by Rivera for the purpose of turning it into a museum. Admission costs $6.50, or $11.50 if you want to take photos. Information is presented in Spanish and English throughout the house, and you can see both a small collection of paintings, as well as a pre-Hispanic urn containing Kahlo’s ashes in the bedroom.

Frida Kahlo Museum.

Frida Kahlo Museum.

Visit: Casa Luis Barragan
Architecture fans will want to head to Casa Luis Barragan, another house-turned-museum in the same area of the city as Casa Azul. Barragan was a 20th century Mexican architect known for his modern housing designs. In 2004, his former home was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Unlike Kahlo’s home, Casa Luis Barragan is only accessible via a guided tour, which is included with the $16 entrance fee. During the visit, you’ll learn about Barragan’s life, as well as his design ideas through their application in the house.

Visit: UNAM Campus
One metro stop south of Casa Barragan is the Central University City Campus of the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México, or UNAM for short.

According to UNESCO, “the campus constitutes a unique example of 20th-century modernism integrating urbanism, architecture, engineering, landscape design and fine arts with references to local traditions, especially to Mexico’s pre-Hispanic past. The ensemble embodies social and cultural values of universal significance and is one of the most significant icons of modernity in Latin America.” One look at the campus on Google Maps, and you’ll realize it’s far too large to walk. Luckily, there’s a free shuttle bus service available to visitors and students alike. Taxis are also available around campus.

I began my visit at the Contemporary Art Museum, where I also grabbed brunch. I then walked around the corner to the Ecological Reserve and Sculpture Park, before hailing a taxi to see UNAM’s most popular building, the Central Library, which is covered in murals made up of small painted tiles.

Contemporary Art Museum on UNAM's campus.

Contemporary Art Museum on UNAM’s campus.

Eat: Pujol
A week before arriving in Mexico City, the 2013 list of the 50 best restaurants in the world was announced. Upon seeing Pujol ranked #17, I immediately made a 2 PM lunch reservation. It’s one of only three restaurants in Latin America currently ranked in the top 20.

Chef Enrique Olvera’s restaurant surpassed my expectations. Unlike Astrid y Gaston (ranked #14) in Lima, Pujol offers a more intimate experience, with just 13 tables. The service was impeccable, with the bilingual staff working together as a team throughout my meal.

Highlights of the 10-course, $80 tasting menu included: roasted beef tartar with alfalfa and serrano chile, fish ceviche taco, pork confit, and all three desserts.

Fish ceviche taco at Pujol.

Fish ceviche taco at Pujol.

12 Comments »

  1. Armida Trentino June 12, 2013 at 5:12 am - Reply

    I just love this city. I have visited Mexico city Twice yet and it is really one of the great tourist destinations in Mexico.

    It is an interesting place with a number of attractions and a vibrant atmosphere. As it is a well developed city so here all of the best facilities of accommodation, eat out places and best transportation options are available.

    I will definitely love to visit Mexico again and again.

  2. Alma June 23, 2013 at 11:28 pm - Reply

    Hi David! This is great. I am planning to visit Mexico, crossing my fingers for next year. :) This post is truly an inspiration and it just made waiting for next year a bit difficult.I am so excited!

    • Dave July 12, 2013 at 10:55 am - Reply

      Thanks Alma, glad you enjoyed it. Mexico City surprised me, both by it’s size, and the amount to do there. I already have a list of things to see in mind for my next visit. Have a great trip!

  3. Michelle July 12, 2013 at 8:13 pm - Reply

    I can’t wait to check some of these places out in Feb 2014!

  4. MARIE WELLS July 26, 2013 at 12:28 pm - Reply

    HI DAVID. IM DOING THE ANCIENT CIVILIZATIONS TOUR. I NOTICED THAT WE GET A COUPLE OF DAYS TO WALK AROUND FREELY. I CERTAINLY WILL VISIT SOME OF THE PLACES THAT YOU MENTIONED .THANKS

  5. Michel August 13, 2013 at 8:23 pm - Reply

    Hi David, Mexico City is great, lots of things to see. If you want to be away from all the tourists though, in one of the most beautiful spots in Mexico, come to Punta el Custodio, a small private community in Riviera Nayarit with 7 beach villa rentals. A truly amazing place!

  6. Richard February 6, 2014 at 10:38 pm - Reply
  7. Lewes April 17, 2014 at 5:16 am - Reply

    Mexico city looks fantastic, I’d love to visit one day. Thanks for the post!

  8. David @ That Gay Backpacker June 18, 2014 at 5:22 pm - Reply

    As far as I’m concerned, Mexico City is one of the greatest cities in the world. And you managed to fit in loads of great stuff in that 48 hours! I love Pujol, Frida Kahlo’s house, and Garibaldi Plaza :)

  9. Juan August 22, 2014 at 8:12 pm - Reply

    Always nice to see a good article about my fantastic home town. Felicidades on the very good recommendations. Only to clarify: It’s Cafe de TaCuba. Best for breakfast or brunch. Also nearby is the traditional Dulceria de Celaya, a traditional Mexican old style sweets shop where you can load up on goodies to pass the time while you sit and watch defeño lofe unfold on one of the benches of Alamada park.

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