Travel Guide

Places To See

Ali Sadr Caves

These highly commercialised caves were discovered 40 years ago by a local shepherd out looking for a lost goat. They rise to a maximum internal height of 40m (131ft) and have a deep river flowing through the middle. Most Iranians are very proud of Ali Sadr.

Mil-e Gonbad

The astonishing Mil-e Gonbad Tower is so remarkably well preserved that one can scarcely believe it's almost 1000 years old. Soaring 55m (180ft) tall, it has the cross-section of a 10-pointed star, and looks like a buttressed brick spaceship. There's nothing inside except some remarkable echoes.

This spectacular tomb tower is a stunning memorial to the remarkable Qabus ebn-e Vashmgi (of which 'Kavus' is a corruption), a prince, poet, scholar, general and patron of the arts. He ruled the surrounding region at the turn of the 11th century and decided to build a monument to last forever. The tower was completed in 1006, six years before Qabus was slain by an assassin.

Persepolis

Persepolis, the Throne of Jamshid, was a massive and magnificent palace complex built from about 512 BC and completed over the next 150 years. This magnificent site embodies the greatest successes of the ancient Achaemenid Empire, exemplified by the monumental staircases, exquisite reliefs, immense columns and imposing gateways.

Persepolis was burnt to the ground during Alexander the Great's time, in 331 BC, although historians are divided about whether it was accidental or in retaliation for the destruction of Athens by Xerxes. The ruins you see today, rediscovered in the early 1930s, are a mere shadow of Persepolis' former glory, but you can still get a great idea of its majesty if you carry a map and use a bit of imagination.

One of the first things you'll see is Xerxes' Gateway, covered with inscriptions and carvings in Elamite and other ancient languages. The gateway leads to the immense Apadana Palace complex, where the kings received visitors and celebrations were held. Plenty of gold and silver was discovered in the palace, but it was predictably looted by Alexander the Great, and what he left behind is in the National Museum in Tehran.

The largest hall in Persepolis was the Palace of 100 Columns, probably one of the biggest buildings constructed during the Achaemenian period, and once used as a reception hall for Darius I.

Imam Square

Known for centuries as Naqsh-e Jahan, or 'pattern of the world', this vast square is home to what is arguably the most majestic collection of buildings in the Islamic world. It's also the second-largest square on earth (after Tiananmen Square).

Begun in 1602 as the centrepiece of Shah Abbas the Great's new capital, the square was designed as home to the finest architectural jewels of the Safavid empire - the Imam Mosque, Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque and Ali Qapu Palace.

Choqa Zanbil

One of Iran's Unesco World Heritage sites, Choqa Zanbil's magnificent brick ziggurat is the best surviving example of Elamite architecture anywhere in the world. Even if you're not a fan of ancient ruins, the great bulk and splendid semi-desert isolation of Choqa Zanbil will impress.

The ziggurat originally had five concentric storeys but only three remain, reaching a total height of some 25m (82ft). It's hard to believe that such an imposing landmark was lost to the world for more than 2500 years; it was accidentally spotted in 1935 during an oil company's aerial survey.

Events

Just about everything that can close will close on a religious holiday, so it's important to know when they fall. Iran's religious holidays follow the Muslim lunar calendar, so the dates according to the Western calendar vary each year. Major events include Ramazan, the month of dawn to dusk fasting; Eid-é Fetr, the one day festival of feasting that marks the end of Ramazan; Ghadir-é Khom, which commemorates the day that the Prophet Mohammed appointed Imam Ali his successor; and the birthday of Mohammed.

National holidays follow the Persian solar calendar, but still usually fall on the same day each year according to the Western calendar. The big bangers include the lustily titled Magnificent Victory of the Islamic Revolution of Iran on 11 February, which is the anniversary of Khomeini's coming to power in 1979; the enthusiastically celebrated No Ruz or Iranian New Year (21 to 24 March); and the tear-jerking Heart-Rending Departure of the Great Leader of the Islamic Republic of Iran on 4 June, which commemorates the death of Khomeini in 1989.

Pre-Departure Information

When to go?

Generally the best times to visit Iran are mid-April to early June, and late September to early November - these times avoid the long, cold northern winter, the Iranian New Year (late March) and the summer, which can be unpleasantly hot in much of the country. And if the heat doesn't keep you away, take note that prices along the Caspian coast can quadruple during summer whereas great bargains can be found come wintertime. Many people prefer not to visit Iran during Ramadan, the Muslim month of fasting, but apart from most restaurants closing between dawn and dusk, Ramadan is not that bad for travelling.

Travel Visa Overview

Everyone needs a visa to visit Iran, and unless you have a Turkish passport, it's going to be a hassle. The regulations are baffling, the costs often high. The best advice is to apply for a tourist visa at least six weeks before you leave home - more if you're British or American. You may want to consider paying an online agent to do it for you. The good news is that once you're in you're in - getting an extension inside Iran is often easier than getting any sort of visa outside the country. Admission is refused to holders of passports containing a visa (valid or expired) for Israel.

Electricity

230V

50Hz

Electrical Plugs

European plug with two circular metal pins

British-style plug with two flat blades and one flat grounding blade

Health Information

Cholera

This diarrhoeal disease can cause rapid dehydration and death. Cholera is caused by a bacteria, Vibrio cholerae. It's transmitted from person to person by direct contact (often via healthy carriers of the disease) or via contaminated food and water. It can be spread by seafood, including crustaceans and shellfish, which get infected via sewage. Cholera exists where standards of environmental and personal hygiene are low. Every so often there are massive epidemics, usually due to contaminated water in conditions where there is a breakdown of the normal infrastructure. The time between becoming infected and symptoms appearing is usually short, between one and five days. The diarrhoea starts suddenly, and pours out of you. It's characteristically described as 'ricewater' diarrhoea because it is watery and flecked with white mucus. Vomiting and muscle cramps are usual, but fever is rare. In its most serious form, it causes a massive outpouring of fluid (up to 20L a day). This is the worst case scenario - only about one in 10 sufferers get this severe form. It's a self-limiting illness, meaning that if you don't succumb to dehydration, it will end in about a week without any treatment. You should seek medical help urgently; in the meantime, start re-hydration therapy with oral re-hydration salts. You may need antibiotic treatment with tetracycline, but fluid replacement is the single most important treatment strategy in cholera. Prevention is by taking basic food and water precautions, avoiding seafood and having scrupulous personal hygiene. The currently available vaccine is not thought worthwhile as it provides only limited protection for a short time.

Altitude sickness

In the thinner atmosphere above 3000m (9842ft), or even lower in some cases, lack of oxygen causes many individuals to suffer headaches, nausea, shortness of breath, physical weakness and other symptoms that can lead to very serious consequences, especially if combined with heat exhaustion, sunburn or hypothermia. Acute mountain sickness (AMS) can affect anyone and care should be taken to avoid ascending mountain peaks above 3000m too quickly. Sleep at a lower altitude than the greatest height reached during the day, if possible.

Sunburn

In the desert or at high altitude you can get sunburned quickly and seriously, even through clouds. Use a strong sunscreen, hat and barrier cream for your nose and lips. Calamine lotion and aloe vera are good for mild sunburn. Protect your eyes with good-quality sunglasses, particularly if you will be near water, sand or snow.

Weather Information

The seasons are clearly differentiated. Spring starts in March and is initially cold and windy, later becoming pleasantly warm and often sunny. Spring and autumn are easily the best times to come, and if you come in spring you avoid having countless Iranians tell you: 'Oh, but you must come back in the spring, it's beautiful.' Summer, which begins in June, is predominantly warm but hot at times, with plenty of sunshine interlaced with heavy rains. July is the hottest month, with temperatures ranging between 35 and 45°C (95-113°F). Autumn comes in September and is at first warm and usually sunny, turning cold, damp and foggy in November. Winter lasts from December until March and can include substantial snowfall, depending on how the weather is feeling and where you are. January and February can be bitterly cold, with temperatures often below -15°C (5°F) or -20°C (-4°F), though the days are often pleasantly mild, particularly in the south.

History and Culture

Culture

Iran's religiousness is its most striking cultural feature - it pervades all aspects of life. The most visible daily expressions of Iran's brand of fundamentalist Shi'ite Islam are the modest dress code and behaviour at mosques. However, other expressions of the culture can be seen in its hearty cuisine, its phenomenal woven carpets and, more recently, in the work of its film makers.

Pre-20th Centure History

The first distinct people to emerge on the Iranian plateau were probably the Elamites, who established a city at Shush in the far south-west. The Aryans came to the region in the second millennium BC, bringing with them some agricultural and domestic skills. It wasn't until the middle of the 6th century BC, when the Achaemenian king Cyrus the Great ruled the region, that Persian history was documented. The Achaemenian Dynasty is recognised as the founder of the Persian Empire, leading to the eventual creation of Iran.

In the 4th century BC Alexander the Great invaded Persia after conquering most of Greece, Egypt, Turkey and Iraq. Despite three conciliatory offers from Darius III for a negotiated peace, Alexander entered Shush. From there, he took some time to cross the mountains to the east, and eventually entered Persepolis, which was soon burned to the ground. After Alexander's death in 323 BC, the empire was divided into three squabbling dynasties, with Persia controlled by the Macedonian Seleucids. But the Seleucids had problems controlling the numerous feisty ethnic minorities, in particular the nomadic Parthians who came to control most of Persia until the 3rd century AD. The Sassanians came from the central regions of Persia not under direct control of the Parthians. They were an industrious Zoroastrian gang who promoted urban development and encouraged trade, but who eventually fell to squabbling and were overrun by the Arabs in 637.

The Arabs ruled until 1050, converting most of the population to Islam and introducing Arabic script and Islamic culture. They were brought down by a Turkish dynasty, which captured Esfahan in 1051. Despite numerous rebellions, the Turks hung onto power until they were swept clean away by Genghis Khan's rampaging Mongols in the early 13th century. When the Mongols ran out of leaders in the late 14th century, the Timurid Dynasty filled the breach, but was then pressured by Turkmen tribes, Ottoman Turks and European colonialists such as Portugal.

The ensuing Safavid Dynasty (1502-1722) was one of the great Persian empires. The brilliant Shah Abbas I and his successors enshrined Shi'ism and rebuilt Esfahan, but the dynasty's decline was hastened by Afghan invasions in the early 18th century. The Afghans couldn't hold power and Iran was ruled by a succession of variously mad, bad and benevolent rulers until the even badder Agha Mohammed Khan, a eunuch, united the Turkish Qajars in 1779 and went on to establish a capital in Tehran. The Qajar kings ruled a relatively peaceful but ruinously corrupt Iran until 1921, managing to remain neutral during WWI, but were not able to prevent a partial occupation by British forces keen to ensure a constant supply of oil.

Modern History

One of the last Qajar kings briefly entertained the idea of elections and a legislative assembly (called the Majlis), but it wasn't until the charismatic Persian Reza Khan came along in 1923 that the idea stuck. Reza became prime minister, and later crowned himself Shah; he commenced the huge task of dragging the country into the 20th century. Iran (the name was officially adopted in 1934) was again neutral during WWII but Britain and Russia established spheres of influence there to shut out Germany. In 1941, Reza was forced into exile in South Africa and his son, Mohammad Reza, succeeded him. After the war, the USA helped persuade the Russians to leave, the young Shah regained absolute power and Iran became firmly aligned with the West.

Over the next 30 years, there was a build up of resistance to the Shah and his regime of repression and modernisation. As the economy went from bad to worse under the Shah's post oil-boom mismanagement, the growing opposition made its presence felt with sabotage and massive demonstrations. The Shah's responses became increasingly desperate and brutal, US support wavered, and he finally fled on 16 January 1979. A couple of weeks later, the acknowledged leader of the Shah's opponents, Ayatollah Khomeini, returned from exile to be greeted by adoring millions. The Ayatollah's fiery brand of nationalism and Islamic fundamentalism led to the efficient establishment of a clergy-dominated Islamic Republic, where the USA was styled as the 'Great Satan' and Israel fared not much better.

Not long after the Ayatollah was proclaimed Imam (leader), Iraqi President Saddam Hussein made an opportunistic land grab in Khuzestan province. It was a disastrous move, embroiling the two countries in a hideous war that killed hundreds of thousands before an unsatisfactory ceasefire was negotiated in 1988. The Western powers and the USSR supported Iraq, using 'lesser of two evils' logic, and weapons were only sold to Iran at vastly inflated prices.

On 4 June 1989, Ayatollah Khomeini died, leaving an uncertain legacy. Two months later Hojjat-ol-Eslam Rafsanjani was elected president, a post which had previously been largely ceremonial, and Khomeini's position as Supreme Leader was taken by the former president, Ayatollah Ali Khamenei. A trade embargo was implemented against Iran by the USA, who alleged that Iran had sponsored terrorist groups throughout the region and destabilised the peace process in the Middle East.

Following the landslide 1997 election of the moderate Iranian President Mohammad Khatami, many hoped that relations with the outside world would improve. However, relations with Germany (and most of Europe) hit rock bottom in 1997 after a German court ruled that the Iranian government had been involved in the assassination of Iranian Kurds in Germany several years earlier. Iran's international position was further destabilised when the US president George W. Bush lumped it into his 'axis of evil'.

Recent History

Khatami's re-election encouraged Iranian reformers, but real power still remained with the Islamic clerics despite reformist rumblings and international pressure. In the 2004 elections the conservatives won control of parliament in a process marked by controversy - the hardline Council of Guardians had disqualified many reform-minded candidates prior to the poll.

The presidential poll of 2005 saw Iranian disillusionment with politicians provide a result few had predicted. Hardline Tehran mayor Mahmoud Ahmadinejad won a run-off against the pragmatic former president Rasfanjani. The new president's fiery anti-Western rhetoric and enthusiastic support of Iran's nuclear program has severely strained relations with the West. Despite requests by the International Atomic Energy Agency and several foreign governments, Iran seems determined to pursue the nuclear program.

Meanwhile, in late 2003 the country was hit by one of the catastrophic earthquakes to which it has historically been prone. Centred around the city of Bam in southeastern Iran, it killed more than 31,000 people and left the city in ruins.