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NEW YORK TIMES - Adventure Guide to Mexico

21 Jan 2008

Beyond the sunbathers, cervezas and spring break debauchery so conspicuously on display in Cancun and Cozumel, Mexico offers a lesser-known adventure experience - the kind that is found deep in the jungle or near small fishing villages and offshore reefs.

The same country that possesses one of the world’s most polluted capital cities also ranks as one of the richest in species diversity. Twenty-two biosphere reserves and nearly 50 national parks offer hiking and wildlife-watching opportunities; mountain chains and interior canyons are chockfull of biking trails; fertile warm-water upwellings attract pods of whales and glittering fish.

Adventurous tourists - particularly those focused on a specific outdoor sport or activity - have much to discover along the coast and on the country’s ruggedly varied interior terrain.

Almost by definition, some of these unexplored gems are in remote areas, so travelers will need to be vigilant about safety. That’s where knowledgeable outfitters are key - they can take you to little-touristed places where you’ll feel comfortable exploring the backcountry forests and secluded beaches that you might not visit alone.

The Canadian company G Adventures organizes an eight-day itinerary to Holbox from Cancún, coordinating accommodation, whale shark tours and other activities for travelers with local Holboxeño suppliers. Out in the waters, whale shark tourism is governed by environmental regulations: snorkelers must remain seven feet from sharks, and boats must stay 100 feet away. Guides are mandatory, scuba diving and fishing are prohibited, and all sunblock must be biodegradable.

“Swimming with the whale sharks was the main reason we went to Holbox, apart from the fact it’s a beautiful little island with gorgeous white sandy beaches and few tourists,” said Jessica Stone, 26, a reflexologist who lives in London and who visited Mexico last year. “They are just so huge you can’t believe you’re in the water with them.”

G Adventures, (800) 708-7761; www.gadventures.com; eight-day Holbox trip from $875.